Hi, I recently mananged to dump 2 nes roms I could not find in
enywhere else. It's a Brazilian game, Futebol, with the brazilian
teams and the other is a Rollergames clone, just the title screen says
DJBoy, you can recover all your energy pressing select and pressing
start + select gives you a lot of lives.
Where do I put these roms to other people to download??
Should I upload to here??
Thanks

A quick search on the internet will bring you the
schematic that you seek.

--- bibface <bib@...> wrote:

> --- In nesmodifications@yahoogroups.com, "CSB"
> <csb_cbw@f...> wrote:
> > I THINK YOU SHOULD CONSIDER TYPING IN NORMAL
> CHARACTERS FIRST, AND
> > THEN PERHAPS CLARIFYING WHAT YOU MEAN AND WHAT YOU
> WANT TO KNOW
> >
> > Good day
> > Christian
>
> THE QUESTION WAS:
>
> BUT I NEED TO KNOW ON THE CARTRIDGE FOR THE NES
> WHICH PINS ARE THE
> POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE.
>
> WHICH BASICALLY MEANS I NEED TO KNOW THE LAYOUT OF
> EITHER THE
> CARTRIDGE PINS OR THE 72 PIN CONNECTOR.  I'M
> INTERESTED IN THE ONES
> THAT POWER THE CHIPS INSIDE THE CARTRIDGE.
>
> WHEN I GET MY NES MODDED I'LL POST DETAILS.
>
>
>
> I TYPE IN CAPS SO I CAN SEE A VISIBLE DIFFERENCE IN
> LETTERS, WHICH I
> STRUGGLE TO SEE IN LOWERCASE AND THEREFORE STRUGGLE
> TO SPELL WORDS. I
> HAVE USED A COMPUTER WHILST TYPING IN CAPS FOR 13
> YEARS.
>
> I TYPED OUT MY GCSE AND CITY AND GUILDS EXAMINATIONS
> IN CAPITAL
> LETTERS AND NO ONE HAD A PROBLEM WITH THIS.
>
> SO I'M NOT GOING TO STOP USING CAPITALS LETTER
> BECAUSE MY SPELLING
> WOULD DETERIORATE AND WHEN THIS HAPPENS I STRUGGLE
> TO PUT DOWN WHAT I
> ACTUALLY WANT TO SAY.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>


__________________________________________________
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I don't mean to belittle your disability or difficulty with typing
upper and lower case text, but please consider that UPPERCASE MESSAGES
SOUND LIKE SHOUTING to normal readers.  These messages also are
difficult to read.

Consider getting a text editor (Ultraedit comes to mind) that can
automatically change the case for you, or allow you to select a block
of text and say convert to lower or mixed case.

A message that is all-lowercase or that has speeling errors (like that
one) is much more acceptable to the internet community at large.

Pat.

For hardware info, check out www.neshq.com in the hardware section.


If you can barely make out lowercase, why don't you just enlarge
the font sizes?

Typing in 100% uppercase is considered impolite by some, and annoying
by many others, me included. It makes the message look like spam/BS,
so it is actually bad for you. When I get a full-caps email, I trash
it automatically unless I know who it is from.

Good luck
Christian

--- In nesmodifications@yahoogroups.com, "CSB" <csb_cbw@f...> wrote:
> I THINK YOU SHOULD CONSIDER TYPING IN NORMAL CHARACTERS FIRST, AND
> THEN PERHAPS CLARIFYING WHAT YOU MEAN AND WHAT YOU WANT TO KNOW
>
> Good day
> Christian

THE QUESTION WAS:

BUT I NEED TO KNOW ON THE CARTRIDGE FOR THE NES WHICH PINS ARE THE
POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE.

WHICH BASICALLY MEANS I NEED TO KNOW THE LAYOUT OF EITHER THE
CARTRIDGE PINS OR THE 72 PIN CONNECTOR.  I'M INTERESTED IN THE ONES
THAT POWER THE CHIPS INSIDE THE CARTRIDGE.

WHEN I GET MY NES MODDED I'LL POST DETAILS.



I TYPE IN CAPS SO I CAN SEE A VISIBLE DIFFERENCE IN LETTERS, WHICH I
STRUGGLE TO SEE IN LOWERCASE AND THEREFORE STRUGGLE TO SPELL WORDS. I
HAVE USED A COMPUTER WHILST TYPING IN CAPS FOR 13 YEARS.

I TYPED OUT MY GCSE AND CITY AND GUILDS EXAMINATIONS IN CAPITAL
LETTERS AND NO ONE HAD A PROBLEM WITH THIS.

SO I'M NOT GOING TO STOP USING CAPITALS LETTER BECAUSE MY SPELLING
WOULD DETERIORATE AND WHEN THIS HAPPENS I STRUGGLE TO PUT DOWN WHAT I
ACTUALLY WANT TO SAY.

I THINK YOU SHOULD CONSIDER TYPING IN NORMAL CHARACTERS FIRST, AND
THEN PERHAPS CLARIFYING WHAT YOU MEAN AND WHAT YOU WANT TO KNOW

Good day
Christian

PLANNING ON DOING SOMETHING VERY STRANGE WITH MY NES AND SNES, WHICH
INVOLVES LOTS OF WIRES, SWITCHES, ETC.  BUT I NEED TO KNOW ON THE
CARTRIDGE FOR THE NES WHICH PINS ARE THE POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE.
ANYBODY KNOW?  IF SOME ONE KNOWS FOR THE SNES AS WELL THAT WOULD BE
NICE.

> I'm going to have to say that it's impossible, plain and simple. the

you're absolutely right about the NES being incompatible with an IDE
or SCSI bus. But that doesn't mean it's impossible to do.

Any modern FPGA (or even an average CPLD) can run at speeds exceeding
100MHz. The NES is what... max 4MHz? It's certainly possible to make
an IDE interface, with some buffer memory, that would appear to be a
normal cartridge, from the console's point of view. The FPGA would be
configured to retrieve a game from the HDD, buffer it (at least
partly) and then behave like a game cart. Using a 20GB 2.5 inch IPod
Hard drive (easily fits in a cart, with lots of room to spare), you
could fit tons of games, probably all games that exist (I don't have
any numbers handy,  but I think there are no more than 1000 - 1200. A
quick calculation tells me that 1000 games could easily fit on a 10GB
drive)

I find this is a pretty good idea... when I get good at programming/
hacking my new NES, this is probably going to land on my 'to try' pile.

While we're at it... using the same FPGA interface, it isn't much
harder to include compactflash/usb drive/you-name-it support.

Lock-out chip was designed by Nintendo to prevent what
is collectively known by various names but generalized
as the "Video Game Crash of the 80's" If you are old
enough, you will remember the early days when there
was Atari, and Atari, and Atari and Atari clones and
EVERYONE making games for Atari because they did not
technically have to be licensed in order to make them.
So at the end of the big wave, there were absolutely
tons of games, noone bought them, the sheer numbers of
them drove prices down on all in order to compete and
all stores pretty much stopped selling them because
they could not make a profit.  Well along comes the
big playing card company known as Nintendo with the
idea of their Family Computer system, the idea went
over well but the name sure did not, so they renamed
it to the Nintendo Entertainment System (who doesn't
like being entertained?). At first, of course as I
said, the idea went over well, but as we all know, so
does communism (on paper it works, not in real life
with real people). Anyway, fastforwarding through a
lot of other developments and stories, Nintendo came
out with the lock-out chip that was placed in each
console and correspondingly with each and every last
game. In order to get these gems, you had to not only
pay NOA the premium to develop the game and license
it, you had to pay for the lock-out chips.
Interestingly, in the beginning the games came with
the chips inside the cartridge with a converter from
our 72-pin to the European/Japanese pin count (isn't
it somewhere in the 30's?) but were removable from the
card to be used should they be needed. Of course noone
likes giving things away, so they stopped that rather
quickly.  Getting back to the lock-out chips, the one
on the console sort of sends out a signal that must be
completed before it will run the game, the only way
that was previously known was to have a corresponding
lock-out chip sending the same signal.
Why would you want to disable this chip? Well, they
malfunction sometimes, also without the chip there
blocking all games not containing another chip, pirate
games could not be used. Well, I'll stop ranting at
that and let you get to the file, it's a little old
but very good:

                        Disabling the NES "Lockout
Chip"    (rev. 0.5 26-Dec-97)

================================

Introduction
------------
This document details a simple modification that you
can perform on your
Nintendo Entertainment System video game console in
order to remove the
"lockout chip" protection system.

Why might you want to do this? Well, I can think of a
couple of reasons:
• You own unlicensed games which can't be played on
your model of NES;
• You own foreign games, and currently have to use a
clumsy adapter system. For
   example, after performing the modification you can
use most PAL games on a
   U.S. console, and use most U.S. games on a PAL
console console.

This document is copyright © 1997 by Mark . The latest
version should be available at:

http://www.netcomuk.co.uk/~markk/index.html
You are explicitly permitted to include the unmodified
document on web sites,
ftp sites and the like.


The procedure given here should work for ANY old
design NES (i.e., any front-
loading model). The new design NES doesn't have a
lockout chip anyway.

With the modification, you can play *ALL* PAL games
(European, Hong Kong or
U.K.) on *ANY* PAL console. However, you can't play
all PAL games on a U.S.
console, or play all U.S. games on a PAL console. Some
games are incompatible
with the different display standards. Examples of this
are High Speed, Pin Bot
(both hang the console), Time Lord, Digger T. Rock,
and various other games
developed by Rare Ltd. However, the majority of games
do work fine.

NOTE: IF YOU KNOW HOW TO CONVERT A PAL NES TO GIVE A
60Hz DISPLAY, PLEASE
CONTACT ME! IF THIS IS POSSIBLE, IT WILL ENABLE *ANY*
NES GAME TO BE PLAYED ON
*ANY* NES, AT THE CORRECT SPEED. Modifications similar
to this are easily done
on SNES, Master System and Mega Drive/Genesis
consoles, but I suspect that the
NES would need a new PPU chip.


If you perform this procedure on your console, PLEASE
LET ME KNOW WHETHER IT
WORKS! I want to update this document so that it's
applicable to as many
consoles as possible. Please tell me which PCB
revision your console has (e.g.
NES-CPU-11), the serial number and also the lockout
chip number (e.g. "3197A").


I have successfully carried out this procedure on a
U.K. model NES, which has
PCB revision NES-CPU-11. All unlicensed games that I
own, and U.S. and European
licensed games work fine. (The unlicensed games which
I tried are Action 52,
Crystal Mines, Firehawk and Super Adventure Quests.)

This procedure has been reported to work on a U.S.
model NES, revision
NES-CPU-11.


If you are interested in the operation of the lockout
chip and the NES' history
in general, you might like to read David Sheff's
excellent book "Game Over",
and consult U.S. patents 4,799,635 and/or 5,070,479.
Indeed, I obtained the
information necessary to carry out this modification
from one of these patents.



Revision History
----------------
[Revisions before 0.5 not recorded]

  0.5  26-Dec-97   Added note about dissipating stored
charge before opening the
                   console, and warning about static
electricity. Various minor
                   changes.



Background
----------
Before the NES was first released in the U.S.A.,
Nintendo developed a system
for preventing the use of unauthorised software with
it. Much counterfeit
software had apparently been produced for their
Famicom (Family Computer) game
system, and Nintendo wanted to avoid this happening
for the NES.

Another benefit (to Nintendo, at least) of the system
was that legal third-
party development was severely hindered. Only Nintendo
licensees could buy the
lockout chips, one of which was fitted inside every
game cartridge. Licensees
were apparently charged around US$9 for each chip.

Some companies managed to get around the lockout
system and produce their own
unlicensed games. Examples of this are Active
Enterprises, Codemasters/
Camerica, Color Dreams and Tengen (though Tengen's
system was ruled to infringe
Nintendo's copyright on the "10NES" program, the
program inside the lockout
chip). Macronix Inc. filed U.S. patent 5,004,232,
which details a method for
getting around the lockout.

However, during the life of the NES Nintendo
periodically modified the console,
meaning that some unlicensed games no longer worked.
For example, "Action 52"
and "Crystal Mines" do not work on my U.S. NES. If
your NES has board revision
NES-CPU-11, it will be unable to play these games.
Disabling the lockout chip
solves this problem.

Nintendo also used the lockout system to provide a
"territorial protection".
This means that you can't use a U.K. or European game
in a U.S. console, for
example. At least four different types of lockout chip
are used in U.K. &
Italian, European, Hong Kong and U.S. machines. A
cartridge with one type of
lockout chip is incompatible with a console containing
any other type.



How the Lockout System Works
----------------------------
This is a very brief description. Consult Nintendo's
patent for detailed
information.

Identical chips are fitted to the console and inside
every game cartridge.
Depending on whether a certain pin (pin 4) of the chip
is grounded or at +5V,
the chip functions as either a lock or as a key.
Inside the console, pin 4 of
the lockout chip is at +5V (lock), and inside the game
cartridge pin 4 is at 0V
(key).

When you switch on the NES, the CPU and PPU are held
in a reset state. The two
lockout chips talk to each other. Since the chips are
identical, they should be
saying exactly the same thing at exactly the same
time. Each chip compares its
output with that of its counterpart. If they match,
the lock chip releases the
reset state of the console, and the game can start.
The two chips still talk to
each other,  and if the outputs of the two chips ever
differ, the lock chip
causes the console to repeatedly reset, and the key
chip inside the game
cartridge may use the chip select lines of the
cartridge ROM chips to disable
them (though this disabling of the ROMs was probably
never done).

The lockout chip is in fact a 4-bit microprocessor
with its own internal ROM
and RAM. The program in the ROM is called "10NES".



How the Modification Works
--------------------------
This depends on changing the lock device to think that
it's actually a key. If
both devices are configured to be the same type (i.e.,
both keys), to quote
Nintendo's patent "an unstable state takes place and
no operations are
performed at all."
This means that the two chips will do nothing. So the
console will not be
reset, and the key device will not disable the
cartridge ROM chips.

To carry out the modification you need to disconnect
pin 4 of the lockout chip,
and connect this pin to ground (0V) instead. If you do
something wrong and the
entire pin 4 breaks off, don't worry. This is what
happened to me, but the
console still works fine. It is not be absolutely
necessary to connect pin 4 to
0V; leaving it unconnected may be okay.

When I was thinking about what might be done to defeat
the protection system, I
came up with three possible solutions. The first is
the simplest and is that
presented here.

The second is more complicated and works in a
different manner. I have not
tried this method, so I can't say whether it works.
Basically, it involves
connecting the output of each chip to that chip's
input. So each chip would
'talk to itself'. Since the input will always be the
same as the output, the
chip will think that its counterpart is of the right
type, and will not reset
the machine.

The third method involves disconnecting the 4MHz clock
from the lockout chip in
the console and the line that leads to the lockout
chip clock pin in the
cartridge. This may well work - if there is no clock,
both devices should be
halted, and thus will not be able to do anything.



Performing the Modification
---------------------------
You will need the following:
• A crosshead screwdriver suitable for opening the NES
case and removing the
   screws inside;
• A very sharp, very small knife, pair of scissors or
similar to cut the IC pin
   - a two-sided implement (e.g. scissors) is
preferable to a knife;
• A grounded soldering iron and solder, and optionally
some desoldering braid;
• A short length of thin insulated wire, with the ends
stripped of insulation -
   2cm is enough.

Game consoles, in common with most modern electronic
devices are VERY SENSITIVE
TO STATIC ELECTRICITY. Ideally, wear a grounding strap
and work on a conductive
surface when modifying your console. Avoid wearing
clothes containing man-made
fibres, which are prone to static (e.g. nylon). As far
as possible, avoid
touching component leads or PCB tracks. Handle the
board by its edges.


When removing screws, make sure you remember which
type goes in which hole!
Here are step-by-step instructions:

1.  Disconnect all peripherals/accessories, including
the AC adapter, from your
     NES. Turn the NES power switch on, wait a couple
of seconds and then switch
     it off. IT IS *VERY* IMPORTANT THAT YOU DO THIS!
IF YOU DO NOT, YOU RISK
     DAMAGING YOUR CONSOLE WHEN YOU OPEN IT UP! Doing
this dissipates any charge
     stored inside the NES. You may see the power LED
light momentarily when you
     turn the power switch on.

2.  Remove the six screws from the base of your NES
and lift off the upper part
     of the case.

3.  Remove the seven screws which attach the upper
metal shielding to the PCB,
     and remove this shielding.

4.  Remove the two screws from around the modulator.
One is to the left of the
     RF jack, the other in front of the A/V jacks.

5.  Remove the six screws which attach the cartridge
tray to the PCB, case and
     black plastic connector. Note that the "middle"
pair are different to the
     others - they are longer, and a silver colour.

6.  Now gently lift the PCB (and cartridge tray and
lower shielding) up out of
     the case. Remove the leads from the controller
ports and power/reset switch
     PCB, and remove the lower metal shielding.

7.  Slide the cartridge tray forwards, lifting it away
from the PCB and
     connector. You can leave the connector attached to
the PCB.

8.  Turn over the PCB, with the component side up and
the black cartridge
     connector towards you.

9.  Note the PCB revision; it is printed in white ink
near the centre of the
     PCB. For example, "NES-CPU-11". There is a white
sticker on the PCB which
     tells you which type of console you have. For
example, my U.K. model says
     "PAL-MTL" (MTL is short for Mattel). American
consoles say "NTSC", Hong
     Kong consoles say "PAL-ASI" (ASI probably short
for Asia), and European
     consoles say "PAL-EEC". Let me know if yours
differs from all of these!

10. Find the lockout chip. "U10     CIC" will be
printed above it on the PCB.
     (The U number is not relevant; "CIC" is.) The
lockout chip on my console
     has the following text printed on it:
                                     3197A
                                  © 1986 Nintendo
                                     9213 A
     This is for a U.K. model console. Other known
numbers are 3193A (American),
     3195A (European), and 3196A (Hong Kong). The chip
has 16 pins. If your
     console has a lockout chip of a different number,
please let me know.

11. Locate pin 4 of the lockout chip. This is on the
row nearest to you, the
     fourth from the left.

12. You need to cut this pin, and bend it up and away
from the PCB. You may
     need to bend a couple of capacitors on the PCB
away from the lockout chip
     in order to get to it. If something goes wrong and
the entire pin breaks
     off, don't worry - see the "How the Modification
Works" section. It may
     help to desolder the pin first; you can use some
desoldering braid for
     this. Try and cut as close as possible to the PCB,
so that a decent length
     is left attached to the chip.

     A neater way of doing this would be so desolder
the entire chip, bend out
     pin 4, and resolder the chip, leaving pin 4
sticking out. However, this is
     quite difficult unless you have a special IC
desoldering tool.

13. This step is optional. Things seem to work fine
with pin 4 left
     unconnected. But you can connect it to ground if
you like, and this is the
     "right" thing to do.

     Solder the length of wire from pin 4 to ground.
Suitable places to connect
     to are pins 11, 12, 13, 14 or 15 of the lockout
chip, since these are all
     grounded. Pin 15 is on the row furthest away from
you, second from left.

14. That's it! You may want to test your NES before
fitting it back together.
     Put the PCB back in the case and connect the power
and controller
     connectors. Slide the cartridge tray into
position, making sure the lip is
     below the PCB. Put a game cartridge in and switch
on. Hopefully everything
     will work! To check whether the lockout chip has
really been disabled,
     switch on with no cartridge inserted. There should
just be a blank screen,
     with no 'flashing' effect.

15. Now reassemble the console. Enjoy your new
"universal" NES!

---

Sorry 'bout that, I'll try to send the file as
attachment later

--- Russell Archey <scyther879@...> wrote:

> How do you go about disabling the lockout chip and
> what good does it
> actually do?  I love my NES but I'm not to up to
> date with the lockout
> chip.



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Just a comment here: I've never disabled my lock-out
chips but generally just replacing the 72-pin
connector has fixed everything for me in the past
(MCM's website sells 'em along with just about
everyone on ebay, be cautious with ebay though)

--- foolish_smart_guy <foolish_smart_guy@...>
wrote:

> I'm not sure what voltage the red LED inside the NES
> is rated at.  I'd
> assume +5v because that's pretty standard for
> circuits with ICs.  The
> blue LED I put in is rated at +6v.  So, running +5v
> into it should be
> fine.  There could be amperage issues.  I guess it's
> possible that the
> new LED could be trying to pull too much juice, but
> I doubt it.
>
> I've had my NES since around 1990, and it's got tons
> of hours on it.
> So, dirty contacts and general wear and tear are
> probably issues,
> too.   In any case, I disabled the lockout chip on
> the NES and now
> everything works fine.  Actually, I'd say everything
> works great.
> Disabling the chips is probably the single greatest
> thing you can do
> to a Nintendo.
>
>
>
>
>


__________________________________________________
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http://mail.yahoo.com

How do you go about disabling the lockout chip and what good does it
actually do?  I love my NES but I'm not to up to date with the lockout
chip.

--- foolish_smart_guy <foolish_smart_guy@...> wrote:

> I'm not sure what voltage the red LED inside the NES is rated at.
> I'd
> assume +5v because that's pretty standard for circuits with ICs.  The
>
> blue LED I put in is rated at +6v.  So, running +5v into it should be
>
> fine.  There could be amperage issues.  I guess it's possible that
> the
> new LED could be trying to pull too much juice, but I doubt it.
>
> I've had my NES since around 1990, and it's got tons of hours on it.
>
> So, dirty contacts and general wear and tear are probably issues,
> too.   In any case, I disabled the lockout chip on the NES and now
> everything works fine.  Actually, I'd say everything works great.
> Disabling the chips is probably the single greatest thing you can do
> to a Nintendo.
>
>
>
>
>


================================================================
10 World Records and Counting:
2 Atari 2600 (Mouse Trap and Zoo Fun)
1 Game Boy (Kirby's Dreamland)
4 NES (Rescue Rangers, Dr. Mario, Tetris 2, Yoshi's Cookie)
2 N64 (2x Mario Golf)
1 MAME (Vs. Dr. Mario - Default Settings)

www.geocities.com/scyther879 - My soon-to-be new website
www.livejournal.com/~neoscyther - My Internet Journal

"With a keen eye for detail, one truth prevails!"
- Case Closed

"Gentlemen.  This is the M12LRV.  I like to call it the Warthog."
"Why Warthog sir?"
"Because M12LRV is too hard to say in conversations, son."
- Red vs. Blue



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I'm not sure what voltage the red LED inside the NES is rated at.  I'd
assume +5v because that's pretty standard for circuits with ICs.  The
blue LED I put in is rated at +6v.  So, running +5v into it should be
fine.  There could be amperage issues.  I guess it's possible that the
new LED could be trying to pull too much juice, but I doubt it.

I've had my NES since around 1990, and it's got tons of hours on it.
So, dirty contacts and general wear and tear are probably issues,
too.   In any case, I disabled the lockout chip on the NES and now
everything works fine.  Actually, I'd say everything works great.
Disabling the chips is probably the single greatest thing you can do
to a Nintendo.

Are you certain the blue LED is rated at the same
volts as the red?  If its too far off from what the
red one is the mother board will either be getting too
much or not enough juice (the resetting sounds like
its not getting enough).  Also make certian you didn't
buy a blinking LED, sometimes they aren't very clearly
marked.

That's the only thing I could think of.  I hope it
helps you fix the problem.

-Joe


--- foolish_smart_guy <foolish_smart_guy@...>
wrote:

> I swapped the standard red LED in my NES with a blue
> one.  Now, when
> powering up my NES, it constantly resets.  Has
> anyone else
> experienced
> this?  I'm going to try to cut pin 4 on the lockout
> chip and solder
> it
> to a ground tonight.  Hopefully, that will fix this
> problem.  I just
> don't understand why this would have happened in the
> first place. The
> LED works fine.  So, I know I didn't bridge the
> connection on the
> circuit board.  Even if I did, looking at the NES'
> schematic, I still
> don't this behavior would happen.  Anyway, just
> looking for some
> thoughts...
>
>
>
>
>




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I swapped the standard red LED in my NES with a blue one.  Now, when
powering up my NES, it constantly resets.  Has anyone else
experienced
this?  I'm going to try to cut pin 4 on the lockout chip and solder
it
to a ground tonight.  Hopefully, that will fix this problem.  I just
don't understand why this would have happened in the first place. The
LED works fine.  So, I know I didn't bridge the connection on the
circuit board.  Even if I did, looking at the NES' schematic, I still
don't this behavior would happen.  Anyway, just looking for some
thoughts...

> hi, is there a guide or a tutorial on how to burn several rom files
> into a eeprom or flash. Is there a "game/file selector" start screen
> that has to be burned in the cart together with the roms or will the
> nes make that automagically?
> thanks for your help
> regards

Hardware wise, I don't think it can be done on large scale without some
fancy logic circuits.  Unlike many other "multicarts" where several ROMs
have common bankswitching format, NES has many various mapper chips and
various arraingements (horizontal and vertical mirroring, etc) and at best
you'd be able to build one containing all the ROMs that uses the exact same
bankswitching format and RAM chips when needed.

You could try building one via FPGA and have it load the appropiate mapper
with the ROM and behave like a normal NES cart but FPGA is not exactly easy
to program.  Also you'd need to add an SRAM chip both for game's use and for
save games.

The easiest way would be to use a computer to load the ROM, the required
mapper code, and then load them into NES like a real cart.  But when you get
this far, you might as well forget about the NES and use emulator instead.

hi, is there a guide or a tutorial on how to burn several rom files
into a eeprom or flash. Is there a "game/file selector" start screen
that has to be burned in the cart together with the roms or will the
nes make that automagically?
thanks for your help
regards
Orr

Have a look at this. Its a NES gameboy using a nintendo on a chip game
controller. There are 2 places to see it.
http://www.ladyada.net/make/gamegrrl/make.html
http://www.i-hacked.com/content/view/132/62/

I'm going to have to say that it's impossible, plain and simple. the NES
doesn't have any kind of controller for ATA/SCSI, and getting one to
interface with the NES hardware is also going to be EXTREMELY difficult.
It's a very interesting concept, it just didn't have much thought put into
it.

-Luke

Anyone have any luck adding a hard or optical drive (ie- one that
could contain your legally backed up ROMS). I know little to nothing
about the NES hardware, but would attaching a drive be really that
difficult?  Of course you'd need a launcher on the drive that could
interface with the NES hardware to allow you to pick which ROM you'd
use.  I also wonder if it would be possible to partition the drive to
allow some space to save game states.

Maybe this would be run through best using Windows CE (which, in all
probability, would require a separate processsor)?  Which reminds me-
I am aware of the "Ulimate NES Mod," where you put a Dreamcast in the
innerds of a NES.  It's a cool idea, but I don't know if you'd be
able to fit the whole NES game library on a single CD, and again
saving the games becomes an issue (plus there's something cool about
running the roms using the ORIGINAL hardware).  And yes, it DOES make
more sense to just use an X-Box, but just go with me on this.

Thoughts?

> This mail is probably spam.  The original message has been attached
> along with this report, so you can recognize or block similar unwanted
> mail in future.  See http://spamassassin.org/tag/ for more details.
>
> Content preview:  What my idea for a handheld NES system is to acually
>  fit a modded front-loading Motherboard into a Sega Nomad. I know the
>  two Motherboards are completely different in size; what i'm planning
>  to do is to desolter everything on the orignal NES Main Motherboard,
>  and make a "Tri-Level" Motherboard that fits in the Nomad. What my
>  "Tri- Level" Motherboard consists of four different Motherboards,
>  hypothetically anyways, (Bottom) the Main Motherboard,(Middle) the LCD
>  screen Motherboard (if I cant fit everything i need on the Main
>  Motherboard, then this is Main/LCD Motherboard), (top) the Controller
>  Motherboard (The one already on the Sega Nomad), and the
>  Socket/Conector Motherboard (which isn't on the "Tri-Level" design,
>  but behind the Bottom Main Motherboard.) If you don't understand a
>  word i'm typing, i'm going to make a Paint of what it should look
>  like.
>  Hopefully, i'll start this project early spring/summer of this year or
>  early next year. [...]

Sounds pretty sweet.
I would need a lot more practice with solder to trust myself on any
project like that... but am very intrigued reading about them. I'm kinda
hoping I can nudge my gamer son into a project like this... he's not much
for soldering either at this point, but he's still in school, so has free
access to the teaching and practicing. (now if i wanted a cabinet to put
it in, he could do that... he's pretty could with a torch for spot welding)

Raven

I'm not sure exactly when it'll be done, since this will be my first
big mod to the NES, and i now for sure that i'll make a tutorial as i
make this drastic mod.--- In nesmodifications@yahoogroups.com, Jorge
Bernal <jbguy2k2@y...> wrote:
>
> Hmm... that's not a bad idea.  How long do you think
> it's gonna take you?  And you think you could also
> make a tutorial if you complete it successfully?
> --- gameskid_4000 <gameskid_4000@y...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > What my idea for a handheld NES system is to acually
> > fit a modded
> > front-loading Motherboard into a Sega Nomad. I know
> > the two
> > Motherboards are completely different in size; what
> > i'm planning to
> > do is to desolter everything on the orignal NES Main
> > Motherboard, and
> > make a "Tri-Level" Motherboard that fits in the
> > Nomad. What my "Tri-
> > Level" Motherboard consists of four different
> > Motherboards,
> > hypothetically anyways, (Bottom) the Main
> > Motherboard,(Middle) the
> > LCD screen Motherboard (if I cant fit everything i
> > need on the Main
> > Motherboard, then this is Main/LCD Motherboard),
> > (top) the Controller
> > Motherboard (The one already on the Sega Nomad), and
> > the
> > Socket/Conector Motherboard (which isn't on the
> > "Tri-Level" design,
> > but behind the Bottom Main Motherboard.) If you
> > don't understand a
> > word i'm typing, i'm going to make a Paint of what
> > it should look
> > like. Hopefully, i'll start this project early
> > spring/summer of this
> > year or early next year.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> =====
> _______________________________________________________
> "I'm a whale an endangered species... HUG ME!!!" Ed
> _______________________________________________________

Hmm... that's not a bad idea.  How long do you think
it's gonna take you?  And you think you could also
make a tutorial if you complete it successfully?
--- gameskid_4000 <gameskid_4000@...> wrote:

>
>
> What my idea for a handheld NES system is to acually
> fit a modded
> front-loading Motherboard into a Sega Nomad. I know
> the two
> Motherboards are completely different in size; what
> i'm planning to
> do is to desolter everything on the orignal NES Main
> Motherboard, and
> make a "Tri-Level" Motherboard that fits in the
> Nomad. What my "Tri-
> Level" Motherboard consists of four different
> Motherboards,
> hypothetically anyways, (Bottom) the Main
> Motherboard,(Middle) the
> LCD screen Motherboard (if I cant fit everything i
> need on the Main
> Motherboard, then this is Main/LCD Motherboard),
> (top) the Controller
> Motherboard (The one already on the Sega Nomad), and
> the
> Socket/Conector Motherboard (which isn't on the
> "Tri-Level" design,
> but behind the Bottom Main Motherboard.) If you
> don't understand a
> word i'm typing, i'm going to make a Paint of what
> it should look
> like. Hopefully, i'll start this project early
> spring/summer of this
> year or early next year.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>


=====
_______________________________________________________
"I'm a whale an endangered species... HUG ME!!!" Ed
_______________________________________________________

What my idea for a handheld NES system is to acually fit a modded
front-loading Motherboard into a Sega Nomad. I know the two
Motherboards are completely different in size; what i'm planning to
do is to desolter everything on the orignal NES Main Motherboard, and
make a "Tri-Level" Motherboard that fits in the Nomad. What my "Tri-
Level" Motherboard consists of four different Motherboards,
hypothetically anyways, (Bottom) the Main Motherboard,(Middle) the
LCD screen Motherboard (if I cant fit everything i need on the Main
Motherboard, then this is Main/LCD Motherboard), (top) the Controller
Motherboard (The one already on the Sega Nomad), and the
Socket/Conector Motherboard (which isn't on the "Tri-Level" design,
but behind the Bottom Main Motherboard.) If you don't understand a
word i'm typing, i'm going to make a Paint of what it should look
like. Hopefully, i'll start this project early spring/summer of this
year or early next year.

I recently made a mod on my NES. I changed it from Front Loading to
Top Loading. Now my NES works every single time without any effort.
Great mod if you are tired of replacing the 72-pin connector. I
replaced my 72-pin connector a few times and also tried bending the
pins, but the fact is that this is only a temp fix. The problem will
eventually come back. So I made this modification that ended that
problem.

Here is a NES game mod.
http://www.beigerecords.com/cory/21c/21c.html

Here is a site that shows you how to overclock your NES.
http://www.epicgaming.uk.ro/nes_oc/

Hello,

I just bought a Top Loader on eBay because my old Toaster has a bad
connector.  Now my "new" used Top Loader I just got tonight doesn't
work!  I'm going to try sending it back to the seller.

Looks like I'm back to modding my old Toaster. I want it to look
original though.  Maybe I'll just try a new connector.

Jeff

I'm modding my nes to have a square cut out above the game cartridge
and 8 led lights around it.  I already have the hole cut and have
bought the leds but I am wondering were the best place to pick up
power is.  The leds can only have 3.7 volt through them and I know I
can get resistors and such to lower the power. Would you recommend
series or parallel hook up and where from.